It goes without saying Balu Pass is an ultra-popular ski tour and it does live up to its hype. It delivers stunning views of the Connaught Valley and Cougar Valley, offers some cruisy skiing and is relatively straightforward which makes it appealing to the less experienced crowds. Beware! The route takes you through several large avalanche paths, 16 to my count. Some run every storm cycle, others once every few years. This makes reaching Balu Pass a hazardous endeavour even if thousand of ski tourers and splitboarders casually stroll across its length every winter – I’m at fault here. Early season, it’s usually one of the first runs to be skied: it’s a perfect way to build up those skinny summer legs and scope out future routes. The valley-bottom tour branches out at different points, veering off into the heights of Grizzly Couloir and Ursus Trees.

I’ve done this tour so many times to reach areas accessory to the Connaught Valley that it’s not even worth writing about a specific trip report. Instead, I’m offering my knowledge and photographic evidence of the zone accumulated through a collection of days.

Related: Nicci’s Notch: Deep Pow and Cold Temps

The trip starts at the Rogers Pass Discovery Center, a flat parking lot next to the Trans-Canada Highway offering plenty of space to lay out your gear and get ready for the day. It’s also worth visiting the building itself, a tourist attraction where you can learn about the history of the park. It also offers an opportunity for the occasional ski tourer to get acquainted with the Rogers Pass Winter Permit System. While you’re at it, you can also practice avalanche rescue scenarios on the vast flat area adjacent to the parking lot.

And so, the trip kicks off with a gentle warm-up as you enter the Connaught Valley and tour along its peaceful creek that runs year-round. A few minutes in, you’ll find yourself at an intersection offering two options.

• Right: the more direct “winter route” that requires a solid snowpack to cover the brutal alders. This option crosses directly under the intimidating Grizzly Slidepath, a large southeast-facing avalanche path that runs every so often.
• Left: the summer trail, less direct, less exposed and clear of the early season brush.

I’ll leave it up to you to make the right call depending on snowpack and avalanche conditions.

Both paths link up right after the Grizzly Slidepath and continue as one all the way to Balu Pass. Next up is a busy avalanche path, aptly named the Frequent Flyer for good measure. Its start zone is reasonably wide, steep and wind-loaded slope perfect for harbouring large avalanches. Spacing out the group or going one at a time is our best defence against such hazards.

About 1km further, you’ll cross the Dispatchers Waterfall flowing out from the vastness of the Dispatchers Bowl. It’s a convoluted feature, part gulley, part waterfall. This path doesn’t avalanche frequently but it’s always best to err on the side of caution. To the climber’s left, there’s a sweet pillow field leading up to the Hospital Bowl, a popular ski touring area.

A few steps further, you’ll arrive at yet another intersection. This one veers to the climber’s right and makes a few switchbacks upslope before vanishing into the forest. It’s the common uptrack to Hospital Bowl, Video Peak, 8812 Bowl and the Ursus Trees. Early season, this uptrack is a little sporty.

Looking across the valley, You’ll find the Cheops north face harbouring the notorious STS Couloir (known for killing 7 high-school students), the classic Cheops North Bowl and Nicci’s Notch. It’s best to stay as high as you can on the north side of the Connaught Valley as you cross those avalanche paths. The clearing most people follow up the valley has been created by previous destructive avalanches.

After crossing under yet more slidepaths, the Hospital Gullies, you’ll arrive at the foot of a large alpine cirque, 8812 Bowl. It happens this is one of my favourite runs of all time. At this point, the valley widens granting you a clear view of skiers speeding down the bowl.

From here on out, it’s a straight shot to Balu Pass. Climb the moderately steep pitch and you’re on top of the world. After spending a couple of hours in the dire valley bottom cold, let that sunshine warm up your soul. Enjoy the view, it’s so worth it!

For some additional vertical gain, it’s possible to climb the mellow ridge of 8821 Peak to the climber’s right or continue onwards to the routes off Cheops Mountain. If you’re looking for some easy-access chute skiing, the looker’s left of Balu Pass has some half-decent lines – short but sweet.

The ski down is also straightforward. Simply follow your uptrack back to the car. Early in the season, the trail tends to be a little rugged with exposed rocks and alders. Take care down that bobsleigh track: the last thing you’d want is an injury in December! Also, watch out for folks ascending the valley – they have right of way. Now, it’s about time for that tailgate beer once you get to the Discovery Center parking lot.

Route Info

For more beta on my adventures, check out the Route Map. This online map interface is a repository of Beyond Our Peak’s published ski touring and mountaineering routes. It’s the best way to browse through trip reports. Give it a shot!